An Unfortunate Update on the 9-3 Arc… 😵
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June 22, 2019 at 7:06 am #47003
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Check out my new shirts here: Merchandise/Website: …June 22, 2019 at 7:06 am #47004Alex Castillo
i have a 2008 saab 9-3 2.0t and Im trying to get the best exhaust sound possible. I dont want to slap together a custom exhaust that will just sound ricey af. i would want a clean and loud sound that will have backfires and so i can hear the turbo better. I know that ill probably have no muffler in order to get the backfires, but i have no clue what to do for the resonator and the cat. should I have a resonator or not? what brand? should I keep the stock cat or should i get some high flow one, and if so from what brand? Im kinda on a budget and i dont want to spend more than like 500-600 dollars on the exhaust, i really just want the best, cleanest, and loudest (in moderation so I dont get ticketed by cops) exhaust sound possible, but i just dont know where to start or what to look for. If someone could help me that would be great, because im kinda lost right now!
June 22, 2019 at 7:06 am #47005x7xCOKeMANx7x
I had a phantom drain on my 2003 9-3 a few years back, replaced the alternator and battery and nothing worked. I actually fixed it by replacing the battery disconnect switch, which connects to the positive terminal of the battery. I would check that if I were you!
June 22, 2019 at 7:06 am #47006Gen_V_Ninja
Can we trade wheels
June 22, 2019 at 7:06 am #47007Rick Huitenga
I had the same thing with my 93 2.0t vector. Low battery. And 2 klicks and no start. Charging the battery would work for a few days but then the same kept happening again. A new battery fixed the problem for me.
June 22, 2019 at 7:06 am #47008Ed Nunes
Dude what wheels are those i need them for my 9-5
June 22, 2019 at 7:06 am #47009Charles Caltrop
Additionally..batteries can be BAD even when brand new..in March I bought a couple of batteries at COSTCO for SAABs, the batteries where from 12/18 which means NOT FRESH..they lasted 3 days and were gone..fortunately their warranty is very easy to claim..and the replacement were GOOD.
June 22, 2019 at 7:06 am #47010Charles Caltrop
It is not a matter of voting or opinion…you need to check voltage after start a good alternator puts 14.5 volts on the battery, if that is OK..the battery IS NOT accepting or keeping the charge..easy test with a multimeter….I have replaced a SAAB alternator only once in +300 cars, therefore the probability that your alternator is bad is very low!
June 22, 2019 at 7:06 am #47011Clive Farrell
Charge the battery again then test the volts while car is running. The volts should read 13 or 14, maybe higher. If not you know that the alternator is not charging the battery.
June 22, 2019 at 7:06 am #47012Albert James
ABS Module may need to be rebuilt, had the same issue on my 2.8T
June 22, 2019 at 7:06 am #47013Szymon Pawłowski
I had this issue like a month or two ago on my MY2003. ESP, ABS, Tranny, Xenon and some more failures popped out on SID. That was good because its almost impossible that all those things went bad at the same time. First thing i did, i measured the battery. It was on 8V when no key in ISM. I recharged it, started the car and measured battery again. It was at 11.9V this time ( should be around 14-14.4V when engine is running), and now it was clear, that alternator went bad and spacifically alternator clutch wheel. Replacement in Poland was around 80$. Cheers.
June 22, 2019 at 7:06 am #47014Filip Andersson
I had the same problem with my 03 9-3 in december, it started with abs and then everything else started to light up, i didnt know it was a bad alternator at the time so i continued to drive it so i got stranded, i got it running with jump cables, but driving it on the battery, wont last long, so it ended up with an expensive tow truck bill. Changed the alternator myself, but a lift is recomended.
June 22, 2019 at 7:06 am #47015Dave Burgess
Alternator… You did try another battery on it first
June 22, 2019 at 7:06 am #47016Lamster66
That's because its the Alternater.
mine went the other week and the first failure was ABS closly followed by everything else electrical was actually lucky to get home.
Charge the battery then stick a meter on it turn everything on that uses electric and test it if its below 12.6V your not charging.
Take the Alternater out (Good Luck) Water pipe off ecu out airbox out and some other pipework running along the front of the engine then a serpentine tool to get the belt off.
Either that or wheel off cover out and get it with a 3/8" drive or jack the pully up.
Once its out the pully is on a cluch jam the armature but sloting a screwdriver in the slots so it catches on the viens. then try to spin the pully it should lock one way if it doesn't its fubar.
If its ok the fit a new regulator/brush pack and save yourself about $500June 22, 2019 at 7:06 am #47017Carter Hamrick
What kind of rims are on your 9-3?
June 22, 2019 at 7:06 am #47018MassiveTrackHunter
Love the SPG shirts!
Btw have you seen the SPG's with the factory whale-tails? I had one on mine and it was a cool look, even if a bit comical. Example:
Edwardian Gray 1989 with a 9000's Aero rims (like a deep dish version of the stock rims), factory louvers and whale-tail; a very cool looking setup.June 22, 2019 at 7:06 am #47019yhird
A bad engine control module can also trigger the ABS/Traction warning depending on the type of module failure. I experienced this failure on my 2006 SAAB 9-3 two years ago and had to replace the ECM to fix the problem. After the battery is charged, and the car is started, check the voltage at the battery with a multi-meter tester to check for alternator voltage output. With a good alternator and the engine running, you should see between 13 and 14 volts depending on the electrical load on the alternator. Hopefully it is only a bad alternator/voltage regulator and not the ECM itself.
June 22, 2019 at 7:06 am #47020Peter Chomanič
if it would be alternator, you would not be able to drive couple of days with freshly charged battery. it would go low pretty soon. also charging light would be on at some point most probably. so I would really try another battery for sure, far easier (and cheaper, ehm), before replacing mechanical parts. Bad battery can cause all sorts of problems, even some mystery lights when nothing is really wrong. You even have other cars at home from which you can borrow the battery, so why not…
June 22, 2019 at 7:06 am #47021Cardboard Silver
Pull the door card off
That mustard plug loves to come off at random. I lost my whole passenger door, and took the card off, and saw the connector was unplugged
June 22, 2019 at 7:06 am #47022WHITE NERD
hey I have a 2003 Saab 93 turbo with boost issues like it sputters on high boost like a miss fire but runs fine if I baby it coils u think or plugs
June 22, 2019 at 7:06 am #47023LDantinhas
I changed the alternator too, but mine was charging very good the battery is a top Varta high power so didn’t worry about it. My problem was that the alternator was making this terrible wiiiiizzzzz noise and increased when reving up the engine. Took it out and it has the internals starting to destroy, with lots of play when turning. BUT it was still charging very good. Got a factory new one problem fixed. I don’t think you got alternator problem, cause it’s a very sturdy part, as I said. Mine was completely wrecked but still charging nice. Maybe touching wires? Bad contacts? Electrical problems are hard to spot if it’s chewed wires…
June 22, 2019 at 7:06 am #47024MassiveTrackHunter
Hold off on replacing the alternator. Check this first.
Likely it's the stereo amp not properly shutting off after a drive, and bleeding the battery for days. (Known issue on these). It draws over an amp continuous but that should stop a few minutes after shutdown. Age-degradation causes the circuit in the amp to fail to properly shut down. Had that battery drain issue with my 05 vert and went through 2 batteries before figuring it out. Fixed it a 2yrs ago and no more battery problems since.
Easy way to find out: Charge it up and drive it for an hour to ensure a decent charge. When shutting down, pull the #14 fuse out of the box on the left side of the dashboard(Fuse for: "Radio, Sound system I, control panel, Infotainment System"). Pop it back in before you put the key in, when you want to drive again. Do this every time you shut down and see if the battery no longer drains over the following few weeks. The amp can be rebuilt or just rig a switch to kill the circuit like I did every time I exit the car. Planning to post that video eventually. Low battery can cause ABS warning since that system can not function on too low voltage. Still good to keep the spare ABS unit so don't trash the old one. 🙂June 22, 2019 at 7:06 am #47025Decay of Alberta
Get a OBD2 scanner. You can find out more about the problem. Unfortunately sad was owned by GM. So, there may be electric issues. GM is known for bad electrics.
June 22, 2019 at 7:06 am #47026Ulises Dam Araujo
Hello. I need advice. I have two Saab's 9-3 aero, one is 2007 the other 2008. The older one it looks it has a blown head gasket I found the spark plugs wet and the oil looks a little milky, I know there are some products out there that supposedly fix this but I'm not sure if I should use one of those. The other Saab does not recognize the key, for this one I was thinking to migrate the computers and modules from the 2007. What would you recommend? And which components should I bring from the 2007 in order to avoid getting a new key? They are very expensive
June 22, 2019 at 7:06 am #47027Tom Spencer
Interesting SAAB dilemma. Good video.
June 22, 2019 at 7:06 am #47028J Nilsson-Acosta
Could also be the second ABS (cooking in the hot AZ sun) is faulty too.
I have a 07 Aero Convertible with 104,000 miles on it and live in Coachella Valley. Replaced CIM and Reman'd the ABS – so far.
When my ABS failed symptoms were: car not starting, AC stopped working, right door window not working, battery drained/dead, CD player malfunctioing. There was a short in the ABS circuit board. When car would not start I would hit the ABS unit and car would start right up.
I used XeMODeX to Re-manufacture my TRW ABS. No need to marry/unmarry and comes with lifetime warranty. Cost was about $380. Three day turnaround. Beats the car stealership price of $1800!
Also read up here on codes that throw you a curve ball with a faulty ABS, SWEDCAR's post from June 18, 2014 nails it.
http://www.bba-reman.com/forums/Topic151380.aspxJune 22, 2019 at 7:06 am #47029Selvin Calix
Did you have to marry the new abs module?
June 22, 2019 at 7:06 am #47030Marlon Rojas
Start the car and check the voltage with a volt meter that way you'll have an idea. It should be charging at 14.4 anything below that no good.
June 22, 2019 at 7:06 am #47031Kizai FPV
Had a similar problem with my drive side lock. It sometimes works and others all three unlock but that door. I end up manually pulling the door knob up then slamming down with force a few times then trying my key fab. Two out of times gets it to work for a few days. Not a fix but maybe in sight.
June 22, 2019 at 7:06 am #47032ray782
I had the same issue, and it turned out to be the a bad new battery. Take your battery for warranty, it is easier and faster than replacing the alternator. If the problem continues then you know for sure it is the alternator.
June 22, 2019 at 7:06 am #47033manuel guazhambo
Have to check the abs sensor I'm sure one of tem is bad so simple
June 22, 2019 at 7:06 am #47034Gorilla Hackerman
If you play Smash Ultimate online with items, stage hazards, or final smash enabled, and you play anything other than stock battle, you should be executed by firing squad
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